Coil Over Swap Rear

Donor Car My 88 TSI with 69k miles.

Most often people switch to adjustable coils or aftermarket springs to lower their ride height.  This does several things to the suspension geometry which effects ride, alignment, and tire wear.  This section will deal mainly with the replacement of the spring and strut to an adjustable coilover. 

Before and after.  Looks much better.

I performed this without a spring compressor, you may want to use one but I didn't feel like renting one.   

  1. Remove the single nut from the top of both struts inside hatch (17mm)

  2. Jack up the car under the center diff and place jack stands under sub frame for safety.  The struts may drop out of the strut tower mounting holes, this is ok.  Watch to make sure the brake lines are not being pulled on, if so support the swingarms with jack stands if necessary, (I didn't need to).

  3. Remove wheels.

  4. Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the brake lines.

  5. Remove the two strut mount bolts 17mm

  6. Remove the hub's strut clamp bolt (this must be completely removed to pull strut) see picture

  7. I used a pry bar to work the strut out while using a screwdriver (to pry open the clamp) and plenty of WD40.  A few slips and some skinned knuckles (my neighbors are still trying to figure out what I said).

  8. I had to push the strut shaft down and move the spring around a bit but it came out pretty easy.

The strut's spring perch was cut off for a cleaner look and more clearance for larger wheels.  Just remember that cutting off the perch or any modifying of the strut voids the warranty.  I used a cutoff wheel and carefully removed the perch close to the strut body.  After cutting I painted the area to prevent rust and give it a finished look.  Of coarse you don't have to cut the perch and it will not effect the function of the spring or strut but you will not be able to lower the adjusters all the way.

  1. When replacing the new assembly make sure you have the correct strut, there is a left and right, (of coarse I found out when the brake brackets weren't lining up).  

  2. Reassembly is much easier as you wont have to fight with the springs.

  3. I left out the dust boot and the original top spring perch. see picture blow

  4. Use the new supplied locking nut and original washer on the strut shaft. 

  5. once the struts are back in the car set the adjusters evenly, replace the wheels and lower the car.

  6. You may need to move the car to get the suspension to settle.

  7. After deciding on your ride height tighten down the allen bolt to lock the adjuster (make adjustments and tighten adjuster with the rear end jacked up).  Adjusting the spring 1/2" will be approximately 1" at the wheels.

For more info on setting up your springs for maximum handling go here.

My stock struts were so shot they had zero compression and some rebound,  these had 69k miles on them and no oil leaks.

Rear end jacked up for easy adjustments.